Personal style
is determined by our preferences. There are 4 areas of focus to consider: formality, fit,
function, and formulation.
How are our preferences formed when it comes to style? Media. Like it or not, we are influenced by everything around us (strangers, peers, tv shows, movies, celebrities, nobodies, high fashion, fast fashion, classic, trendy, etc). We dress similar to the people in our age group, our field of interest (such as rugged, street, or sartorial), and our area of residence. This is due to our social norms of fitting in and following the crowd. Of course, this isn't 100% true, but it is worth noting that most people dress for social acceptance and there's nothing wrong about that. We all want to belong and be recognized by our tribe of choice. However, we don't want to copy exactly what our peers are wearing. This is where personal style comes in. Choose our core (field of interest), and then add our personality into it.
We should always do our research. Just like anything in life, it pays to study and read up on other enthusiast's approach on the subject. Joining in on the conversation gives us past and current information, classics and trends, and the rules and faux pas of the community. However, try not to get caught up in peer pressure and hard locked rules. Personal style is about expression and finding out what our preferences are. As a general rule, we should find out what's available, use what works for us, and create our own guidelines.
The products and designs available are all traditional garments that had been popular at one point in time which designers then tweak or modernize. Yet, if we think about it, clothes aren't truly considered more "stylish" than others. There are clothes that possess a higher level of formality or a particular function. However, among clothing of the same formality level, it becomes subjective and arbitrary in terms of "style". For the most part, articles of clothing do possess elements of function or visual interest that WE prefer over others. An example of this is that one field jacket is more functional than another due to the additional amount of pockets or the element of a waist suppression system. Another example for field jackets would be the type of collar that the jacket has such as a high standing collar like the M-65 or the blazer or lapel-like collar of the M-43, which is a difference in both function and visual interest.
FORMALITY
When it comes to formality, we have to determine what we are comfortable wearing, and how dressed up we'd like to be. We can be wearing a suit and be considered casual. Conversely, if we are wearing a casual ensemble such as a T-shirt and a pair of shorts, we could elevate that look (if desired) by changing the shirt to a polo or adding a watch (or accessory). Every garment has a level of formality that leans either casual or formal. Moreover, there are garments at each end of casual and formal levels. We should lean towards "dressing up" in our outfits. Picture a scale from 1 to 10, with the former being most casual and the latter being most formal. A good practice for style enthusiasts is to discover the number we are most comfortable with and slowly move up or down the scale. We can dress on the scale of formality based on occasion or desire alone for not everyone likes to dress formally and vice versa. For myself, I dress at a 7 on the formality scale. I don't like to draw too much attention with my clothes because my aesthetic is already out of the ordinary (from what I've seen around my area), and increasing the formality level of my everyday outfits would draw even more attention. If I want to maintain my level of personal expression and have an elevated look, I have to size down on the formality (among other aspects).
There are many factors that determine the formality of the outfit. Some of these factors will be addressed in other focus points such as formulation and fit. For now, the main factor that determines formality is fabric. In the sartorial and tailoring world, the sleeker, shinier, and softer the fabric, the more formal the garment is. This is because certain fabrics are pricier than others and harder to obtain and craft with (at least in older times). Most people couldn't afford to buy such clothing or would ever find themselves in the occasion for such a delicate garment. Using traditional knowledge, if we want to look more formal, we should wear luxury clothes which is generally more visually appealing than your typical everyday wear. On the other hand, wearing casual fabrics has many advantages. Don't think that the more readily available and affordable fabrics are in any way inferior to formal fabrics. Each material has its own characteristics that determine where it stands in formality. The rougher, more textured, and hard wearing fabrics are considered casual. Generally, casual fabrics last longer than formal fabrics.
The foremost point in choosing our fabric is to align ourselves with our desired formality. The following point would be the sensation of wearing the garment. It should be just the way we like it. Whether, it be soft or dry; light or heavy; etc. For example, a personal choice of mine is corduroy. I like corduroy because it's made of cotton which means its quite soft to the touch, yet the way the lines or wales are spun makes it quite thick. Furthermore, when the garment is well worn, the wales fade and wrinkles uniquely to the user's movements, which is an aesthetic that I value.
FIT
Just like the formality scale, there is a scale for fit as well. Wide to tight and short to long. We will be using suits as a guideline to fit. There are many rules when it comes to sartorial wear. However, fit is the most scrutinized detail. Generally, we want the Goldilocks fit: of it being comfortable and slim enough to fit our body. Though, we may have the preference of tighter or fuller suits. Moreover, we can also have a tighter jacket with looser pants fit (or vice versa) as well.
Some considerations in choosing our fit are the associations or aesthetic of fitted, wide, and tight clothing. These fits are interchangeable in the fashion world for the trend rotates between each one down the line. Some of us really enjoy the relaxed and casual nature of wide and loose clothing. Others find value in tighter fitting clothes because it gives off a different look (they may even enjoy the tightness). From what I've gathered, fits that are slim and tight are considered more formal or smart-looking than loose, wide, and baggier fits. Which fit is better? It depends on our body type and what we prefer. What do we want our clothes to say or achieve for us? If it is to maximize our height or to appear wider (or vice versa), then there are fitting guidelines that will benefit us. An example of this is for shorter people, clothing that is too long would make them look shorter, so they should wear clothes that don't bunch up at the ends (arms and legs). For skinnier people, tighter clothes would emphasize how thin they are, so they should dress a bit wider. Strangely enough, for bigger and wider people, they should dress to conform to their body or dress wider for a flattering look and should avoid slim and skinny fit which emphasizes their larger size.
A sound guideline is to dress in the middle of the fit spectrum. Let the fit be slim but not tight, and have it conform to our body. Ultimately, we are dressing for expression. At the back of our head we are wary about what others think, what is popular, and all those little factors that are the "limiters" of our style, but we should still decide for ourselves what we like to wear, even within said limiters. One way to look at guidelines and the fads of fashion is that it's a good thing to have fewer choices to choose from.
My preferred fit is a fitted top half and a wider lower half. To use my suit as a reference, I make sure the chest, waist, and hips fit closely to my body, and the arms and legs to fit fuller (not tight at all). When it comes to length, I make sure the arm length ends right at my wrist, and the pants to end with a slight break. Additionally, I wear a higher rise pair of trousers, to create the illusion of a higher leg line. I enjoy the comfort a wider fit has, and I like how it makes me appear wider than I actually am.
FUNCTION
Discovering the fine details about our preferences helps us decide which garments we actually wear and prevents us from buying clothes that we will regret in the future. The foremost detail that will aid us in this consideration is function. To start, determine our desired level of warmth, weight, and coverage that our clothes provide for us. This is different for everyone. Some of us like to wear more layers or coverage such as adding a hat or a scarf to their outfit. Others like to show more skin or wear lighter weighted clothes. Secondly, identify the functional pieces or details that we need for our everyday lives such as a bag, an umbrella, or the number of pockets on our clothes. Lastly, combine the formality preference mentioned above, and further narrow our choices.
To give a personal example of mine, I wear thicker clothes that have pockets. The jackets and coats I wear have outside and inside pockets, and the pants I wear have side and back pockets. The reasons why I want pockets for my clothes is that I have a habit of putting my hands in my pockets, and I do not like to wear a bag thus requiring inner pockets for my everyday carry. In like manner, I don't like to use an umbrella during rainy days. Instead, I wear a long overcoat and a hat for protection. I wear thicker clothes because my environment is cold for three seasons except for summer. I also like to wear hats because it provides coverage, warmth, and shade.
Two functional items that most men have are the belt and wristwatch. However, I do not use these two items because I do not like how they feel. I make sure the pants I get are tailored to fit my waist so I wouldn't need a belt (or suspenders). I use my phone to tell the time and forego the wristwatch entirely for the freedom of my wrists. As a matter of course, I will not buy any items that do not meet my functional requirements and preferences.
FORMULATION
The last focus point is the most fun and creative out of the four. Formulation is about how we colour and coordinate our outfits. First determine the qualities that we want our clothes to have (with our preferences), then choose our desired colours. After deciding which colours to use, we then arrange, contrast, or match our clothes to form an outfit.
Here are three different approaches to colour: keep it simple and choose one colour; make it contrasting, and choose complimentary colours (two colours); mix it up, and choose more than three colours.
I like to have a maximum of 3 colours in my outfit. Note that I count neutrals such as white, black and grey as colours. My main outfits revolve around suits and tailoring. The suit makes it simple in terms of forming an outfit because of the matching top and bottom in the same fabric. It's a striking look, which also elongates the wearer. I primarily use a two colour approach, with high contrast instead of matching colours. An example of this is black and white. A high contrast look works with my light skin, dark eyes, and dark hair.
Coordinating an outfit can be as complex or as structured as we want it to be. It helps to coordinate after deciding which colours we want to wear first (also having the other preferences listed above sorted out). First, determine the base colour of our outfit and then add accessories to enhance the look if desired.
In my opinion, any outfit that is similar to a suit is formal. Even the dark tracksuit, with matching jacket and pants would be somewhat formal compared to other casual ensembles. Conversely, when you break up the suit into separates (different jacket and pants) and add different colours with accessories against your base outfit colour, the ensemble is deemed more casual. Ultimately, the suit, blazer, tie, and collared shirt have a higher level of formality to other garments because of the associated visual elements (like the lapel, collar, and cuffs of a shirt). However, with colour you can lower the formality of those items due to formal clothing being either dark or neutral colours. Add a pastel, primary or secondary colour into an outfit in the form of an accessory to change an outfit's message, downplay the formality, and show your desired colours.
How are our preferences formed when it comes to style? Media. Like it or not, we are influenced by everything around us (strangers, peers, tv shows, movies, celebrities, nobodies, high fashion, fast fashion, classic, trendy, etc). We dress similar to the people in our age group, our field of interest (such as rugged, street, or sartorial), and our area of residence. This is due to our social norms of fitting in and following the crowd. Of course, this isn't 100% true, but it is worth noting that most people dress for social acceptance and there's nothing wrong about that. We all want to belong and be recognized by our tribe of choice. However, we don't want to copy exactly what our peers are wearing. This is where personal style comes in. Choose our core (field of interest), and then add our personality into it.
The products and designs available are all traditional garments that had been popular at one point in time which designers then tweak or modernize. Yet, if we think about it, clothes aren't truly considered more "stylish" than others. There are clothes that possess a higher level of formality or a particular function. However, among clothing of the same formality level, it becomes subjective and arbitrary in terms of "style". For the most part, articles of clothing do possess elements of function or visual interest that WE prefer over others. An example of this is that one field jacket is more functional than another due to the additional amount of pockets or the element of a waist suppression system. Another example for field jackets would be the type of collar that the jacket has such as a high standing collar like the M-65 or the blazer or lapel-like collar of the M-43, which is a difference in both function and visual interest.
FORMALITY
When it comes to formality, we have to determine what we are comfortable wearing, and how dressed up we'd like to be. We can be wearing a suit and be considered casual. Conversely, if we are wearing a casual ensemble such as a T-shirt and a pair of shorts, we could elevate that look (if desired) by changing the shirt to a polo or adding a watch (or accessory). Every garment has a level of formality that leans either casual or formal. Moreover, there are garments at each end of casual and formal levels. We should lean towards "dressing up" in our outfits. Picture a scale from 1 to 10, with the former being most casual and the latter being most formal. A good practice for style enthusiasts is to discover the number we are most comfortable with and slowly move up or down the scale. We can dress on the scale of formality based on occasion or desire alone for not everyone likes to dress formally and vice versa. For myself, I dress at a 7 on the formality scale. I don't like to draw too much attention with my clothes because my aesthetic is already out of the ordinary (from what I've seen around my area), and increasing the formality level of my everyday outfits would draw even more attention. If I want to maintain my level of personal expression and have an elevated look, I have to size down on the formality (among other aspects).
There are many factors that determine the formality of the outfit. Some of these factors will be addressed in other focus points such as formulation and fit. For now, the main factor that determines formality is fabric. In the sartorial and tailoring world, the sleeker, shinier, and softer the fabric, the more formal the garment is. This is because certain fabrics are pricier than others and harder to obtain and craft with (at least in older times). Most people couldn't afford to buy such clothing or would ever find themselves in the occasion for such a delicate garment. Using traditional knowledge, if we want to look more formal, we should wear luxury clothes which is generally more visually appealing than your typical everyday wear. On the other hand, wearing casual fabrics has many advantages. Don't think that the more readily available and affordable fabrics are in any way inferior to formal fabrics. Each material has its own characteristics that determine where it stands in formality. The rougher, more textured, and hard wearing fabrics are considered casual. Generally, casual fabrics last longer than formal fabrics.
The foremost point in choosing our fabric is to align ourselves with our desired formality. The following point would be the sensation of wearing the garment. It should be just the way we like it. Whether, it be soft or dry; light or heavy; etc. For example, a personal choice of mine is corduroy. I like corduroy because it's made of cotton which means its quite soft to the touch, yet the way the lines or wales are spun makes it quite thick. Furthermore, when the garment is well worn, the wales fade and wrinkles uniquely to the user's movements, which is an aesthetic that I value.
FIT
Just like the formality scale, there is a scale for fit as well. Wide to tight and short to long. We will be using suits as a guideline to fit. There are many rules when it comes to sartorial wear. However, fit is the most scrutinized detail. Generally, we want the Goldilocks fit: of it being comfortable and slim enough to fit our body. Though, we may have the preference of tighter or fuller suits. Moreover, we can also have a tighter jacket with looser pants fit (or vice versa) as well.
Some considerations in choosing our fit are the associations or aesthetic of fitted, wide, and tight clothing. These fits are interchangeable in the fashion world for the trend rotates between each one down the line. Some of us really enjoy the relaxed and casual nature of wide and loose clothing. Others find value in tighter fitting clothes because it gives off a different look (they may even enjoy the tightness). From what I've gathered, fits that are slim and tight are considered more formal or smart-looking than loose, wide, and baggier fits. Which fit is better? It depends on our body type and what we prefer. What do we want our clothes to say or achieve for us? If it is to maximize our height or to appear wider (or vice versa), then there are fitting guidelines that will benefit us. An example of this is for shorter people, clothing that is too long would make them look shorter, so they should wear clothes that don't bunch up at the ends (arms and legs). For skinnier people, tighter clothes would emphasize how thin they are, so they should dress a bit wider. Strangely enough, for bigger and wider people, they should dress to conform to their body or dress wider for a flattering look and should avoid slim and skinny fit which emphasizes their larger size.
A sound guideline is to dress in the middle of the fit spectrum. Let the fit be slim but not tight, and have it conform to our body. Ultimately, we are dressing for expression. At the back of our head we are wary about what others think, what is popular, and all those little factors that are the "limiters" of our style, but we should still decide for ourselves what we like to wear, even within said limiters. One way to look at guidelines and the fads of fashion is that it's a good thing to have fewer choices to choose from.
FUNCTION
Discovering the fine details about our preferences helps us decide which garments we actually wear and prevents us from buying clothes that we will regret in the future. The foremost detail that will aid us in this consideration is function. To start, determine our desired level of warmth, weight, and coverage that our clothes provide for us. This is different for everyone. Some of us like to wear more layers or coverage such as adding a hat or a scarf to their outfit. Others like to show more skin or wear lighter weighted clothes. Secondly, identify the functional pieces or details that we need for our everyday lives such as a bag, an umbrella, or the number of pockets on our clothes. Lastly, combine the formality preference mentioned above, and further narrow our choices.
To give a personal example of mine, I wear thicker clothes that have pockets. The jackets and coats I wear have outside and inside pockets, and the pants I wear have side and back pockets. The reasons why I want pockets for my clothes is that I have a habit of putting my hands in my pockets, and I do not like to wear a bag thus requiring inner pockets for my everyday carry. In like manner, I don't like to use an umbrella during rainy days. Instead, I wear a long overcoat and a hat for protection. I wear thicker clothes because my environment is cold for three seasons except for summer. I also like to wear hats because it provides coverage, warmth, and shade.
Two functional items that most men have are the belt and wristwatch. However, I do not use these two items because I do not like how they feel. I make sure the pants I get are tailored to fit my waist so I wouldn't need a belt (or suspenders). I use my phone to tell the time and forego the wristwatch entirely for the freedom of my wrists. As a matter of course, I will not buy any items that do not meet my functional requirements and preferences.
FORMULATION
The last focus point is the most fun and creative out of the four. Formulation is about how we colour and coordinate our outfits. First determine the qualities that we want our clothes to have (with our preferences), then choose our desired colours. After deciding which colours to use, we then arrange, contrast, or match our clothes to form an outfit.
Here are three different approaches to colour: keep it simple and choose one colour; make it contrasting, and choose complimentary colours (two colours); mix it up, and choose more than three colours.
I like to have a maximum of 3 colours in my outfit. Note that I count neutrals such as white, black and grey as colours. My main outfits revolve around suits and tailoring. The suit makes it simple in terms of forming an outfit because of the matching top and bottom in the same fabric. It's a striking look, which also elongates the wearer. I primarily use a two colour approach, with high contrast instead of matching colours. An example of this is black and white. A high contrast look works with my light skin, dark eyes, and dark hair.
Coordinating an outfit can be as complex or as structured as we want it to be. It helps to coordinate after deciding which colours we want to wear first (also having the other preferences listed above sorted out). First, determine the base colour of our outfit and then add accessories to enhance the look if desired.
In my opinion, any outfit that is similar to a suit is formal. Even the dark tracksuit, with matching jacket and pants would be somewhat formal compared to other casual ensembles. Conversely, when you break up the suit into separates (different jacket and pants) and add different colours with accessories against your base outfit colour, the ensemble is deemed more casual. Ultimately, the suit, blazer, tie, and collared shirt have a higher level of formality to other garments because of the associated visual elements (like the lapel, collar, and cuffs of a shirt). However, with colour you can lower the formality of those items due to formal clothing being either dark or neutral colours. Add a pastel, primary or secondary colour into an outfit in the form of an accessory to change an outfit's message, downplay the formality, and show your desired colours.
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