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Personal Colour Analysis And Classic Menswear

We tend to pair clothing that compliments, contrasts, or matches well with each other but neglect fitting our own colouration into the formula. There are a specific set of shades, tints, and tones that best flatter our physical features. To determine our set or "personal colour" we must look at our eye colour, skin tone, and hair hue. In detail, the skin tone comprises of the overtone (surface colour) and undertone (accent) and can be quite difficult to determine. From what I've gathered, our overtone ranges from dark to pale skin, while the undertone leans in favour of cool colours (blue, green, purple) or warm colours (red, orange, yellow). One method to find the undertone is to look at the metal of our watches. The people who tend to wear silver metals may have a cool undertone. The people who prefer gold may have a warm undertone.

I advise you to find a local Image Consultant and take a Personal Colour Analysis. This is where an expert drapes different sets of fabric around our body like a shawl to determine which colours best flatter us. With the knowledge and experience of the Image Consultant, they determined my "season" or set of colouration before wrapping any fabric around me. Nevertheless, the Image Consultant demonstrated how flattering my personal colours are against my complexion during the drape test.

I learned that a "winter" should be wearing the darkest values, purest whites and brightest colours. Subsequently, some of these colours are present in my hair, eyes, and skin, explaining why those shades are so flattering. In my case, I have black hair, dark brown eyes, and fair-light skin. So, the darkest black and brown, and clearest white makes my skin shine and dark eyes pop. I've also determined that I have a high contrast complexion (my sombre features clash with my light skin), and with that knowledge, I make sure my outfits are equally high contrasting.

So what happens if we don't wear our personal colours? Simply put, our complexion and clothes would not mesh together. The focal point would be either our face or our clothes. We may also notice that people compliment our clothes instead of our person. On the other hand, adorning our personal colours makes for a harmonious appearance. I witnessed this harmony and lack thereof during the drape test by purposely comparing different colours and values; each shade alters the appearance of our skin for the better and for the worse.

Applying Your Personal Colours To Classic Menswear

Not surprisingly, men rarely take personal colour tests. Due to traditional, business, and formal dress codes, men do not need to know if a black suit looks good with their skin colour, or which shade of blue would fit his contrast level. Classic clothing doesn't ask those questions nor does it need to. The majority of men know what colour their first, second, and third suit would be based on occasion alone: navy, black, and charcoal. Interestingly, suits are mostly dark and neutral colours, explaining why most suits look decent on an individual, and that fit is the issue of focus (when it comes to suits) before the choice of colour. Nevertheless, knowing our personal colours and contrast levels has its advantages.

The Solid Shirt

In classic menswear, the two most commonly worn dress shirts are white and light blue. A white shirt is the most contrasting choice for a dark suit, and the most formal; while a light blue shirt is a medium contrasting option and is accepted as both casual and business wear.

There are many different combinations for each individuals colouration, and one can look good in both the white and light blue shirt. However, depending on our hair, skin, and eyes, we would look more flattering with one over the other.

All sorts of brown hair match well with a light blue shirt because of the similar level of contrast (medium). For tanned and brown-skinned individuals, the light blue shirt would also be the flattering choice. Arguably, a light blue shirt suits blue and grey eyes more than brown and green eyes do.

On the other hand, white shirts best suit black, black-brown, and blonde-to-white hair. The reason being that white contrasts with dark hair, while it matches with ash blonde and white hair. Additionally, the paler the skin, the more flattering a white shirt would be. Equally so, the darker the skin, the more contrasting a white shirt would look. Furthermore, both dark and light coloured eyes suit a white shirt.

That being said, the white shirt is a traditional garment and is acceptable to be worn by everyone, though if the individual leans warm, an ivory or cream (slightly yellow white) would suit them better.

The Striped Shirt

White isn't worn exclusively for the Winter season palette or high contrasting people. One can wear white as a medium contrasting person in a striped shirt. The shirt isn't high contrasting because of the pattern and additional colour added. Moreover, we can choose the appropriate colour that suits our own colouration and preferences (dark or light, cool or warm).

We have to find the right value or saturation for each of our garments. For example, a medium contrasting man would look advantageous in a royal blue suit than a dark navy suit, a solid light blue shirt than a solid white shirt, and a pair of brown oxfords than a pair of black oxfords.

As a matter of course, it is advantageous to wear our personal colours in an outfit. However, we can purposely wear the complementary colour of your outfit for a dynamic look. The key is to wear it in our accessories, shoes or accent parts of our outfit. For example, an all blue casual outfit would pop with a pair of pale orange sneakers because blue and orange are complementary colours. Additionally, the shoes are lighter than the saturated outfit, which means it doesn't take all the attention. However, it is contrasting because the shoes are a warm colour while the rest of the outfit is cool.

Ultimately, discovering our personal colours and grade of contrast (high, medium, or low), will further benefit our commerce and coordination with clothes.

I decided to wear the darkest navy and darkest brown in my main outfit. I also chose stark white as the collared shirt of my ensemble. In classic menswear, navy is a staple suit colour. It is dark and can be dressed up or down. However, it is more on the formal side of the spectrum. As a matter of course, I paired it with a dark brown overcoat, which is considered a casual colour, so it balances out the formality. Since both shades are in my personal colour palette and are equally dark, they work well together.

Classic-Winter-Palette
My Personal Colours | From My Session

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