To offset the formality of the suit, you should choose features and items that are deemed casual in their selected departments. For example, a dark navy cashmere knit tie with no interlining (thin and less stiff), and a square end, can be said to be a casual tie (for a navy tie). Furthermore, an unstructured suit is a casual suit because of the following elements: no shoulder pads, lining, and limited canvas interfacing. As a result, the suit forms to the body and is susceptible to wrinkling (in the areas of motion). Coupled with a textured fabric and you have one contradicting suit (in-between casual and formal). For instance, an unstructured, wide-wale corduroy, 3/2 roll, suit with big patch pockets (instead of flap pockets) emanates a sartorial, yet disheveled look.
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Articles of Style | Wide-Wale Navy Corduroy Suit |
The concept of sprezzatura uses a lot of effort, thought, and decision into an outfit. Ideally, the skill should go unnoticed to the viewer. To achieve and practice this mentality, you must first study established "rules" such as: how to properly wear a suit and when to appropriately wear a suit. Incidentally, with knowledge of whats "correct", doctrines of whats inappropriate, rebellious, and bold are then equally known. As a result, this understanding allows you to skillfully play and daringly stretch the boundaries of dressing. Know the rules so you can break them if you so desire.
Almost entirely, when something is unbuttoned, whether if it's the cuffs of a shirt or the buttons on a suit jacket sleeves; it feels more comfortable and literally opens up the outfit to a different mood. Unfastening the cuffs on a dress shirt makes it seem like a long sleeve shirt. Therefore, giving you greater mobility. I purposely commission shirts that are skinnier in the forearm and shorter in length so I can wear them unbuttoned (while showing 1/2 inch of shirt sleeve). I also leave one button unfastened on each jacket sleeve for less tension and try to wear my jacket open as often as I can. Ultimately, dressing casually and feeling comfortable is linked. You can be unaffectedly dressed up.
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The following topic is a questionable one: loosening up the tie. Wearing a loose tie is when you unbutton the top button of the shirt and station the tie in the middle of the top and second button. It is essential to pair this look with a softly rolled, oxford cloth, buttoned-down shirt because the constraints of the buttoned-down collar, keeps the tie secure. Even with the top button unfastened, the loose tie doesn't seem too low on the collar (when done in this way). Additionally, the soft roll of the collar maintains the V shape of the shirt and tie. As a result, you can have the benefits of turning your neck, breathing deeply, and gulping down food with ease. However, this look can seem sloppy to some and even frowned upon by fellow enthusiasts. Nevertheless, it is my preferred method of wearing a tie.
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Drake X The Rake | Navy Cashmere Knit Tie |
Withholding a pocket square or a tie-bar is one practice of letting an outfit be perfectly lacking. I personally wear either a tie or a pocket square by itself (with a suit) and only pair both together with seperates (odd trousers). Although these personal guidelines are just that, your own decisions, it is advisable to minimize your accessories for that effortless look. Lastly, you may feel more at ease with less.
To end off your outfit, choose the perfect pair of shoes that suit your needs. In my case, I chose flat square-shaped shoes. You've heard of it before. The chunky leather office shoes that you might find at your local mall for under $60 (although those particular shoes are not what I wear). It isn't a popular last among the community. Yet, I prefer such a peculiar fashion for this very reason: comfort. Having a wider and non-tapered toe box makes it so your toes won't be forcibly squished together. Additionally, it is perhaps the most informal last. Generally the more pointy the shoe, the more elegant and formal it would be. Conversely, these shoes are shaped for your foot instead of the other way around. There is a following for these controversial shoes because of the comfort and speculated health benefits associated with "minimalist shoes". From what I've gathered, walking barefoot or stimulating the feeling of walking barefoot with minimalist shoes (or barefoot shoes): strengthens your ankles, protects damage towards your knee (said to be the cause of wearing inclined shoes such as high heels, or dress shoes over time), and fixes your posture. Contrary to popular belief, flat-soled, foot-shaped shoes may be the ideal footwear for walking in terms of joint, muscles, and bone health.
Not all square-shaped shoes look chunky. I wear a dark navy, suede, chukka boot with a flat rubber sole in a natural foot-shaped last. The soft suede matches the rest of my outfit, which is heavily focused on a textured look.
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The Drifter Leather | Navy Suede Lion Desert Boots |
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