I bought the “Time Long Coat” from Magnoli Clothiers in the “Wool Blend” (75% Wool/ 25% Cashmere), “Dark Brown” colour with “Blue” striped lining. I adored the 10th Doctor and wanted to dress like him. However, I didn't want to cosplay; I wanted to embody the spirit and design of the tenth doctor into my everyday wear. The reason why I chose the wool blend instead of the faux suede is this train of thought: I wanted a natural material that is more hard-wearing than faux suede. I have nothing against the material and the look of faux suede. If anything faux suede looks even better than the wool blend. I was simply thinking that the wool would work better in terms of warmth and longevity for daily wear in rain or shine.
I chose a dark brown colour because I wanted to be slightly different from the tenth doctor's design. Furthermore, the “Golden Rod” colour did not work as well for me compared to dark brown (what with my complexion and my black hair). Overall, the colour of the coat was darker and dustier than expected. I wish it was browner in saturation. Perhaps, the wool makes it look dusty or grey like. The fabric itself feels pretty rough in the beginning but softens after a few weeks of wear. The blue lining was darker than I expected (which is good), thus matching the dark brown wool. Additionally, it isn't as heavy as you would expect for a long coat; it is a medium weight coat that is thin enough to fly vigorously against the wind.
To get the right measurements, I communicated with an executive of the company via email many times over. First thing I did was follow the “Leather Jacket” measurement guide (which is what you have to do before purchasing the coat from Magnoli Clothiers). There were some measurements that I knew would fit well on me and some that were discovered after the purchase. Nevertheless, here are my personal tips and measurements used for the coat.
The total length of the coat was fairly easy to confirm. Simply, take a measuring tape and hold it from the base of your neck to your desired length. For example, I held the 48-inch number on the tape and dangled the rest down to imitate the overcoat, discovering my desired length. Remember to adjust for your preference, and wear your high top converse for further accuracy. I decided that the total length of the coat should be slightly touching the top of the sneakers. In hindsight, I would have shortened about 2 inches of the total length so I could walk up escalators easier.
The total length of the coat was fairly easy to confirm. Simply, take a measuring tape and hold it from the base of your neck to your desired length. For example, I held the 48-inch number on the tape and dangled the rest down to imitate the overcoat, discovering my desired length. Remember to adjust for your preference, and wear your high top converse for further accuracy. I decided that the total length of the coat should be slightly touching the top of the sneakers. In hindsight, I would have shortened about 2 inches of the total length so I could walk up escalators easier.
For the total shoulder width, I added 1/2 inches from my suit.
(Ex. Suit 15 inches, Overcoat 15.5 inches)
If you don't want shoulder pads in your overcoat, I suggest you ask them to remove it and size down from 1/2 inches to 1/4 inches increase to the shoulders.
(Ex. Suit 15 inches, Overcoat 15.25 inches)
When it comes to the armhole, it is okay to have up to 1 or 2 inches of space available.
(Ex. Shirt armhole 7 inches, Suit armhole 7.5 inches or 8 inches, depending on your preference, and Overcoat armhole 8, 8.5, or 9 inches)
The chest measurement should not be increased from your suit measurement because you will be wearing the overcoat open and unbuttoned.
(Ex. Suit 17 inches, Overcoat 17 inches)
For the bottom length, I copied the shoulder measurement (however I don't have broad shoulders, so measure your waist accordingly).
(Ex. Shoulder 16 inches, Bottom 16 inches)
I suggest you leave about 2 inches of room from the biceps, down to the arm opening; again increase the measurement from your suit.
(you can make the arm opening a bit smaller if you prefer, say 1.5 inches instead of 2 inches)
For the total sleeve length, I made it 1.5 inches longer than my suit's
(Ex. Suit 21 inches, Overcoat 22.5 inches). This length covers the dress shirt but doesn't hover over the knuckles like Tennant's coat does; for the screen accurate fans, increase from your suit 2 inches or 2.5 inches for the overcoat.
(Ex. Suit 15 inches, Overcoat 15.5 inches)
If you don't want shoulder pads in your overcoat, I suggest you ask them to remove it and size down from 1/2 inches to 1/4 inches increase to the shoulders.
(Ex. Suit 15 inches, Overcoat 15.25 inches)
When it comes to the armhole, it is okay to have up to 1 or 2 inches of space available.
(Ex. Shirt armhole 7 inches, Suit armhole 7.5 inches or 8 inches, depending on your preference, and Overcoat armhole 8, 8.5, or 9 inches)
The chest measurement should not be increased from your suit measurement because you will be wearing the overcoat open and unbuttoned.
(Ex. Suit 17 inches, Overcoat 17 inches)
For the bottom length, I copied the shoulder measurement (however I don't have broad shoulders, so measure your waist accordingly).
(Ex. Shoulder 16 inches, Bottom 16 inches)
I suggest you leave about 2 inches of room from the biceps, down to the arm opening; again increase the measurement from your suit.
(you can make the arm opening a bit smaller if you prefer, say 1.5 inches instead of 2 inches)
For the total sleeve length, I made it 1.5 inches longer than my suit's
(Ex. Suit 21 inches, Overcoat 22.5 inches). This length covers the dress shirt but doesn't hover over the knuckles like Tennant's coat does; for the screen accurate fans, increase from your suit 2 inches or 2.5 inches for the overcoat.
To conclude, I would recommend the screen accurate Faux Suede Golden Rod W/ Blue Lining Time Long Coat for the best satisfaction. I haven't bought it yet, but will definitely get it when the time comes. I hope this review and guide helps you with your purchase. The examples are what fits my body type. Definitely measure yourself, communicate with the Magnoli Clothiers team, and find out your own preferences. The measurements seen above made sure the coat was slim enough down through the body and roomy enough in the arms. Thank you for your time.
Thank you for sharing this informative article. Long Coat Men
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